I got the bus to B0sa, a pretty town where I spent from noon until 5:10 PM when my bus went to Alghero. Along the way we eventually skirted the coast and went through many pretty villages. A couple of them had murals on the walls—-what a nice alternative to graffiti.
In Bosa I searched out the museum, which was a 1700s house, all furnished, and also an art gallery for their favorite son, Melkiorre Melis, who painted in the early 1900s.
There was a castle way up high—-too high—-that I didn’t visit, but it made lovely photos.
By and by I found a spiffy seafood restaurant and
had their meal of the day along with a bottle of wine. I asked about a half bottle, but they didn’t have any, and I have learned not to order the house wine here—-the bottled is much better. And since it’s cheap, I splurged, being careful not to drink more than I should.
Bosa was a nice stop——the bus ticket seller in a coffee bar let me store my pack in his closet while I did the sightseeing.
I got back on a bus at 5:10 PM to go to Alghero, arriving at 6:30, just as the sun was setting. I learned that I had to take a city bus about 4 km to Fertile, a nearby village, where my hostel was located. When I asked a lady where to get the bus, she said she was going there, sat with me and directed me where to get off.
The hostel was nice; the first night I had three roommates—-two from France and one from Croatia. And the hostel furnished a typical Italian breakfast of big, fresh roll and real cappuccino. How nice!
The next morning I took a bus into Alghero to start exploring. The weather was none too warm and the sky was overcast.
I walked along the bastions of the fortress walls for a long ways. Alghero is a very pretty town, as many of them are, especially along the water.
Then I explored a number of churches. I thought the cloisters of the San Francesco church were lovely.
Remember those Syrian refugees? Well, African refugees are here and
some look very unfortunate.
Eventually I bought some provisions for linner at a supermarket—-prosciutto, pecorino cheese, bread, melon and some local wine. I ate it at the hostel. They have plastic bins in this hostel in which to put food in the refrigerator. That’s a good idea because people often check out and leave stuff in the fridge.
Here was my first visit to a nuraghe. They are ruins of settlements from 1500 BCE! I walked about 40 minutes to this one, the Palmavera Nuraghe, which is just outside of Fertilia, the little village where my hostel is located. I had a nice bicycle lane to walk on, which kept me out of the heavy traffic on a road with no shoulders, at least until the last half mile.
It’s surprising how much is left of these settlements. Of course there has been some restoration, but still they are quite remarkable, given their age.
I walked down to the water in Fertile. Even though there was no beach there (there are zillions every where else) it was a beautiful scene.
I was having trouble with my computer (my new one has been nothing but trouble) and so was on a chat line for three hours that morning. Finally I had linner in a restaurant in Fertilia (lasagne al forno) and then had a cuppa with my English friends that are staying in the hostel, Margaret and David.
I got Franco, the local taxi-man, to take me to the Necropolis di Anghelu Ruju, a burial place that was used from 3300 to 2700 BCE. Yes, this is OLD! Not too much is known about these ancient people.
An interesting note: Franco told me that many of the older generation around here speak Catalan, a hangover from the Spanish conquest of Sardinia in the 1300s. He said that during World War II Mussolini imprisoned people who were heard speaking it, since their national language, Italian, was to be used. And many of the people speak Sardinian, their own Latin-based language. I think the younger generation speaks Italian and some English. Anyway, the necropolis was pretty interesting.
Tuesday was my day for bussing. I took a bus from Fertilia to Sassari, the second largest city on Sardinia. I didn’t get to see much of it today, though, because I took another bus to the town of Torralba. From there I walked out into the country for an hour to see the Nuraghe Santu Antine, another old nuraghe from 1600 BCE. This one was quite spectacular and allowed one to go inside of the towers. A woman and her daughter were just leaving when I was, so I asked if I could have a ride back to Torralba, which they obligingly did. How nice. The lady was half Sardinian and half German, living in Frankfurt.
After they dropped me off I had a nice linner in a small restaurant in this pretty little town, which was very good. It’s pretty hard to get bad food here. Then back on a bus to Sassari, taking a few minutes before the next bus to buy my train ticket for tomorrow, and then my last bus of the day back to Fertilia and the hostel. The weather was a little threatening and just as I got back to Fertilia it started dripping a bit, but all in all, a very good day.
The next day another bus ride to Sassari, to see their Museo Nazionale Sanna. It was a long walk from the bus station, where I left my pack with the ‘man’ for 1 euro 50—-hoping that my computer would still be there when I returned. The padlock that I had brought had gone bad early on, so it was unlocked.
I first encountered an old, old church—-from the 11th and 12th C—-and HUGE. It was called Santa Maria from Betlem and there was a statue of the same name—-obviously the honoree of the church. She, too, was from the 12th C.
The Sanna Museum was great, although there were some cases that were not well lit, so a little troublesome as many of the object d’art were the small bronze nuraghe statues. They also had lots of Roman stuff—-some gold earrings were especially pretty I thought, and from the 3rd C BCE! It was raining a bit, too, when I did the long walk back to the bus station to collect my pack and then head for the train station to get a train to Olbia.
In Olbia I have a hotel, rather than hostel (there weren’t any). It is well located on their main drag. And yes, my computer was safely in my pack!
Again, it was raining a bit, but
with an umbrella from the hotel I sallied forth and walked down to the pier. On the way, in spite of the rain, I photographed their lovely Municipio. (Town Hall) and then had some pizza and wine.
The next day after a very nice hotel-provided breakfast, I walked around the town of Olbia, a very nice exercise. The coffee bar workers were right ready to provide coffee; at the pier a BIG ship was in—-it seemed to have German tourists aboard;
on the pier also, race cars were being assembled for a race that apparently starts later today. So Italian!
I had my usual look at the churches—-one was really old from the 11th C. It was called Basilica San Simplicio and had interesting old stones incorporated into its facade as well as medieval columns in the interior.
The tourist season is winding down now, as most of the Europeans that come for the beach scene have gone. Still there is enough activity with those of us who like the old stones and the food/wine.
The rainy weather seems to be over for the moment and now we have bright sunshine, although the highs are only about 73 degrees. I did walk down to the bus station to find out about buses for tomorrow and the next day. How odd. There is no central bus station. There are bus stands along the main roadways that have electronic signs giving schedules. I went into a coffee bar to inquire. Yes, he had the schedule, which I copied for the next two days for where I’m going. One buys a ticket at the coffee bar and waits on the street for your out of town bus! It’s a little easier with a central station, but I guess I can make this work.
I had stopped in at the Tourist Information Center located in the beautiful Municipio and gotten a map and other information. It seemed that there was an archeological site right in town. So I walked there and found that it was the remains of Punic Walls from 750 BCE for when this town was first founded by Carthage.
After that I kind of just wandered. It’s interesting to see the art on
the street here. I’m not sure what this mural means, but it certainly was eye-catching!
Moving on I came to a vegetable seller that prominently had displayed fresh porcini mushrooms, which are only available fresh at this time of year. I had them the other day in pasta as they are a favorite of mine, but they didn’t seem to have the rich flavor of the ones in Tuscany. Maybe they are a different variety.
Then other interesting art—-this fountain caught my eye. Imagine bringing a sketch of this to the City Council for their approval?
Tomorrow I’m going on a bus (if I’m standing in the right place on the sidewalk) to Arzachena to see more old stones. One also gets to see the countryside from the bus window. It’s pretty rugged looking. I was thinking that it resembled scenes in old movies set in the late 19th C. Then on Saturday I shall move to Nuoro.